This information applies to just about all '64-'72 A-bodies for B-body and F-body spindle swaps. Grab the spindles from the donor car and the brackets for the brake hoses. (We just modified the existing ones, so we're not really sure if the brackets from the donor car will fit properly). Everything else should be NEW. Take the calipers along for the core charge.

    As far as tie rods, you have two options: Use your stock inners with the outers for a 1979 Monte Carlo (TRW part #ES2033RL), or you can use inners and outers for a 1973-1977 LeMans. The TRW part numbers are ES2020L inner, ES427R outer, and ES2004S for the sleeve. The Monte Carlo tierod end does NOT have the exact kingpin dimensions as the Firebird and Impala ones do, although many people do seem to use this combination. Logically, if you are replacing the front brakes your inner tie rods probably need to be changed - so you may as well use the proper set. Please check here for a scaled drawing to see what I'm talking about. This setup works great. I found this information in my Moog and TRW master suspension and steering parts books. As for ball joints, you will be using the uppers for YOUR car. The lowers should be ordered for the DONOR car, then take them to a shop along with your original lowers. Have the shop turn down the area on the new balljoints where they seat into the arm to the same diameter as your stock ones. It is about a 0.010" cut.

    Brake hoses from a '79 Firebird should be the proper length, and will mate to the caliper and hardline correctly. Don't use the early Grand Prix hose, it wasn't long enough in both of the swaps I tried (1967 LeMans, and 1968 Chevelle). Order calipers and rotors for the donor car, and try not to get yourself or the counterman confused with all this part swapping!

    If possible, find a power booster to put on your car. You'd be surprised at what places like Advance Auto can get for you when they actually look for parts. Order the booster for your car! In some cases you will have a choice between units, one has a shorter pushrod. If possible, get the short pushrod type to make mating up to the proper master cylinder easier. Pushrod length depends on the manufacturer, but right now I can't remember which is the short style. You may order a master cylinder for pretty much any disc brake car. They all have the same maximum stroke, and as long as it's for a power disc brake car the bores are all the same within 1/16 of an inch. I personally used one for a 1979 f-body. Note that this will NOT work if you have the long style pushrod in your booster. You can either change the pushrod in this case, or use a master cylinder from a mid-late 60s GM POWER DISC BRAKE car. If you choose option 2, I can't help you with a part number off the top of my head. Therefore, I encourage you to change the pushrod if you did order the long pushrod style.

    I do not recommend using the stock proportioning valve from the donor car, instead buy an adjustable Wilwood, your weight distribution will be different from the donor car, the tires won't be the same as the donor car left the factory from, and they weren't setup very good from the factory anyway. It is WELL worth the money for the Wilwood valve, and you will optimize your braking performance for your specific application. Rotor size, weight distribution, type of pads, tire width and height all affect the front to rear application ratio you will require, better to have your brakes totally optimized. However, under NO circumstances should you not use any type of proportioning valve, your rears will lock up horribly with even slight application of the pedal.

    For 67+ cars: Basically, you will be running the rear line into the adjustable prop valve, then back out to the long line that runs to your rear axle. You can bypass your stock distribution block for the rears at this point if you so desire. No plugs in the distribution block are necessary if you do decide to bypass, as the rears and fronts DO NOT connect inside the distribution block. The front line routing should not be changed.

    For 64-66 cars: Absolutely DO convert to a dual circuit master cylinder! You may use your stock distribution block. Connect the front line from your master cylinder to the original inlet in the distribution block, then connect the lines that will go to your front caliper to where the originals went. Buy an inverted flare plug to fit the last port in the distribution block, and install it. Do NOT use teflon tape or thread sealer. For the rear line, run it as above.. from the master cylinder into the new adjustable proportioning valve, then straight from the valve to the back of the car.

    I'd highly recommend the Global West tubular control arms, as I've heard nothing but good things about them. However, I was able to shim my a-arms on both my 1967 LeMans with stock log manifolds, and then later with a set of Hooker headers. It was also possible to shim the a-arms on a 1968 Chevelle with a small block and large-diameter headers. At the very least, get the offset shaft that are available, and turn them around so they shim the a-arm further inward instead of outward. I cringe at the extremely large stack of shims I had to use. I actually cut some steel stock to start with, reducing the number of small shims. 1/2" to 5/8" is a good starting point. The GW a-arms will allow far more variability in your camber and caster settings.. which is a good thing, otherwise why would you be using a tall spindle? Only use the stack of shims/offset mounts as a quick fix if you don't have the huge chunk of change that GWs cost. UPDATE: I went to order GWs for my car and they have discontinued their BARE control arms - they are now only availble with bushings. This was a problem for me, but may not be for you. Just be forewarned!

    Last but not least, front brake pad selection is important. You probably put front discs on for great stopping power and better pedal feel. In that vein, I recommend Bendix brake pads (MKD52S), or even better yet Performance Friction's Carbon Metallic pads from Autozone - or Performance Friction's Z-rated pads. All of these offer great stopping power, thought the Z-rated will tend to be the best under heat. If for some reason you want organic pads, please do NOT use Wearever or Albany's pads. Get Bendix D52S pads, these are organic and high quality. Bendix is available from any Advance Auto Parts store, while Autozone carries Performance Friction. I'd also of course recommend Bendix or Wagner rotors, may as well put the good stuff on your old iron! Yes, before you ask - there IS a difference between them and the low end rotors.

    I won't list the various advantages of a disc brake swap here, as you can find that information elsewhere. However, noone offered perfect information each time around. For example, most people recommend that you get the proportioning valve off the donor car, which is a horrible idea as far as I'm concerned. Factory brake biasing was pretty poor to begin with, nevermind using one off another car. They also all recommend the usage of the Monte Carlo tie rod end, which doesn't have the same kingpin dimensions as it should, as I said it does seem to work fine, however my combination of tierods seems to be better either way. The stock brake hose brackets will have to be modified with a file/dremel to fit the disc brake hoses in. Beware of this before hand. Good luck. If you have any further questions, please contact me, so I can clarify the information on this page.