Times Herald Record

December 29, 2002

Best fare

   Best Appetizers
   There were a lot of creative and interesting dishes in this category, but my personal favorite was the Tuna Tartare served at Downtown Cafe; it was outstanding.
Also in the running were the Crabcakes at Catherine's of Goshen, the Rock Shrimp Rolls at Nikola's, and the Shrimp ras al Hanout at The Blue Mountain Bistro.
   
   Best Salads
   Ship to Shore demonstrated simple perfection in a salad of Beefsteak Tomatoes and Arugula. Close behind was a Roast Pecan and Cherry Salad at Winding Hills Restaurant, a creative and sophisticated combination. The munificent Salad with Bacon and Egg at Auberge Canard was an entire meal masquerading as a salad, a huge plate of goodness.
   
   Pizza and Sandwiches
   Cosimo's knows its pizza and the Chicken, Bacon and Pesto Pizza we tried here was perfect, everything pizza should be. Painter's Tavern served a terrific Summer Foccacia, a thick and hearty version of a traditional pizza that is delicious and innovative. Hands down the best burger I had all year was served at Raccoon Saloon. Its Grilled Burger is a monstrous, fresh and delicious hunk of excellent ground beef grilled perfectly and served with homemade ketchup to amp up the flavor.
   
   Pasta
   Probably one of the best pasta dishes I've ever encountered was this year at Ristorante Locust Tree. The Almond Gnocchi Souffle is a sophisticated and simple preparation where the gnocchi are baked instead of boiled and the light, melt-in-your-mouth texture, combined with a simple Taleggio cheese sauce, is something I still dream of. No other pasta dish came close. However, the Polenta con Funghi at Cena 2000 was Italian comfort food taken to a new height and deserves a round of applause, as does the Chicken Penne at Main Course.
   
   Seafood
   Strangely enough, one of the best seafood dishes I encountered this year was at Schlesinger's, which specializes in steak. The Chilean Sea Bass there, served with a simple glaze of soy and hoisin, was wonderful. Our Semolina Crusted Red Snapper at Ship to Shore was simple perfection and the Diver's Scallops with Pinot Noir Sauce at The Inn at Stone Ridge were also excellent. Honorable mention goes to the wonderful Wild Sockeye Salmon at Ristorante Locust Tree and the Mediterranean Salmon at nearby Harvest Cafe.
   
   Meats
   The Duck a la Orange at Auberge Canard, appropriately enough, was simple and delicious, as was the Black Angus Sirloin Steak at Joyous Lake. Two other winners were the Hanger Steak at The Blue Mountain Bistro and the Rack of Lamb at The Owen Murphy Inn. My favorite protein bonanza, however, was a perfect, aged, Black Angus Rib Eye steak I enjoyed at The Inn at Stone Ridge – outstanding.
   
   Desserts
   The Blueberry Creme Brulee at Ugly Gus was very good, as was the uncomplicated Carrot Cake at Bacchus. Also up there was the decadent Chocolate Ganache Cake at Beebs, and the Banana and Blackberry Pie at Downtown Cafe was unique and wonderful. Worth mentioning are the Chocolate Profiteroles at Catherine's of Goshen.
   
   Best Decor and Ambience
   You have to love the funky Armadillo Cafe, which is weirdness defined, and The Egg's Nest also comes from the eccentric school of restaurant design. Gasho of Japan is impressive and Joyous Lake in Woodstock is a design sensation. For over-the-top, throw-money-at-it design, the winner has to be Torches of Newburgh with its huge aquarium and soaring room.
   
   Best Outdoor Dining
   It's too cold to think of it now, but when warm weather comes around it is hard to beat Mariner's on the Hudson and its spectacular views of the river.
   Harvest Cafe is a great spot, as is Cafe Tamayo's inviting garden area and people watching at Landau Grill in Woodstock is always interesting.
   
   Best Service
   The service at Nikola's, Ship to Shore and Ristorante Locust Tree was all very good. Worth mentioning are The Owen Murphy Inn and La Stazione.
   
   Family Dining
   You have to enjoy Carmine's of Kingston for large groups and hefty portions to share, but beware of the noise level. Coyote Cafe remains one of my daughter's favorites, along with The Golden Ginza, which features hibachi tables for family style dining. The Eggs Nest, Outback Steakhouse and Cosimo's in Middletown are also cheery spots with menus to suit everyone.
   
   Most Romantic
   The Inn at Stone Ridge is a beautiful way to step into the past and dine in historic splendor. Marcel's is simple and cozy, especially on a winter night.
   The Egg's Nest has some wonderful nooks and crannies. Joyous Lake, Auberge Canard and Locust Tree Ristorante are all appealing in different ways.
   
   Wine List
   There are some impressive wine lists in the area, but my favorites are Beebs American Bistro, Catherine's of Goshen, Joyous Lake, Cosimos in Middletown, Cafe Tamayo and Chianti.
   
   Best Restaurant for Singles
   It is difficult to argue with The Blue Martini as the hot and sticky leader in this category. Torches, Painter's Tavern and The Gilded Otter all deserve runner-up status.
   
   
   Overall Best for 2002
   It's hard to pick an overall favorite, but Ship to Shore really impressed me with its combination of food and service. The Owen Murphy Inn was a pleasant surprise for good food in a very large space. Nikola's at The Newburgh Yacht Club provided a great meal and service to match, Ristorante Locust Tree brings elegant Italian cuisine to a historic location and finally, Auberge Canard for authentic, classic French cuisine in a country setting.
   
   Restaurant critic Bill Guilfoyle has more than 25 years' experience in the restaurant industry as a sommelier, manager, and chef/owner. He is an assistant professor at a local college. He welcomes readers' comments; e-mail him at poptopics@th-record.com.
   
   Armadillo Cafe: 97 Abeel St., Kingston, 339-1550
   Auberge Canard: Route 28, Big Indian, 254-4646
   Bacchus: 4 S. Chestnut St., New Paltz, 255-8636
   Beebs American Bistro: 18 N. Plank Road, Newburgh, 568-6102
   Blue Martini: 50 Front St., Suite 102, Newburgh, 562-7111
   Blue Mountain Bistro : Route 212 and Glasco Turnpike (between Woodstock and Saugerties, 679-8519
   Cafe Tamayo: 89 Partition St., Saugerties, 246-9371
   Carmine's of Kingston: 14 Thomas St., Kingston, 334-9383
   Catherine's of Goshen: 153 W. Main St., Goshen, 294-8707
   Cena 2000: 50 Front St., Newburgh, 561-7676
   Chianti: 362 Broadway, Newburgh, 561-3103
   Cosimo's: Route 211 East, Town of Wallkill, 692-3242, and 1217 Route 300 (Union Avenue), Newburgh, 567-1556
   Coyote Cafe and American Grill: Hudson Valley Mall, Kingston, 382-2233
   Downtown Cafe: 1 West Strand St., Kingston, 331-5904
   Egg's Nest Restaurant and Saloon: Route 213, High Falls, 687-7255
   Gasho of Japan: Route 32, Central Valley, 928-2277
   Gilded Otter Brewing Co.: 3 Main St., New Paltz, 256-1700
   Golden Ginza : 24-28 Broadway, Kingston, 339-8132
   Harvest Cafe: 10 Main St., New Paltz, 255-4205
   Inn at Stone Ridge: Route 209, Stone Ridge, 687-0736
   Joyous Lake: 42 Mill Road, Woodstock, 679-1107
   La Stazione: 5 Main St., New Paltz, 256-9447
   Landau Grill: 17 Mill Hill Road, Woodstock, 679-8937
   Main Course: 232 Main St., New Paltz, 255-2600
   Marcel's: Route 9W, West Park, 384-6700
   Mariner's on the Hudson: 46 River Road, Highland, 691-6011
   Nikola's at The Newburgh Yacht Club: 1 Park Place, Newburgh, 561-5255
   Outback Steakhouse: 25 Crystal Run Crossing, Town of Wallkill, 695-1913
   Owen Murphy Inn: 1700 Route 17M, Goshen, 294-0182
   Painter's Tavern: 266 Hudson St., Cornwall on Hudson, 534:2109
   Raccoon Saloon & Restaurant Inc.: 1330 Route 9W, Marlboro, 236-7872
   Ristorante Locust Tree: 215 Huguenot St., New Paltz, 255-7888
   Schlesinger's: 475 Temple Hill Road, New Windsor, 561-1762
   Ship To Shore: 15 W. Strand, Kingston, 334-8887
   Torches on the Hudson: 120 Front St., Newburgh, 568-0100
   Ugly Gus Cafe: 11 Main St., Kingston, 845-334-UGLY (8459)
   Winding Hills Restaurant: 1847 Route 17K, Montgomery, 457-8133
   


Downtown Cafe
One West Strand
Kingston, NY  12401
Phone: (845) 331-5904
Email: downtowncafefood@aol.com

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