Required Tools:

Sockets: 10mm, 12mm, 15mm (standard and deep), 18mm, 21mm deep, 13/16s

Other tools:

Rubber Mallet
T30 Torx bit or 1/4 inch driver and possibly a 1/4 inch socket
10mm box end - 12 point
12mm box end - 12 point
15mm box end - open end
3/8s and 1/2 inch extensions
3/8s or 1/2 inch drive universal joint (not necessary, but very helpful.)
1/2 inch drive breaker bar
150 ft lb Torque Wrench
4 Large Jack stands
2 Small jack stands
1 3000 lb floor jacks
A second 3K floor jack or a cheap one with good reach.

Optional:

Air compressor and/or impact gun - Electric ones are available

Parts and supplies:

8.8 rear end assembly
4X4.5 bolt circle 30 spline pinion flange: FMC# E9TZ-4851-A or FRPP# M-4851-B
Latex shop gloves - this is a damn dirty job.
Blue Loctite
Black paint (optional)

Disclaimer:

I have no formal mechanics training. The following Tech Article is based on my personal experience working on cars. Any clerical errors and the like are due to human error and procedural errors are due to just not knowing any better. Use this guide at your own risk.

7.5 Removal:

Notes:

If you are going to paint the 8.8, do it now. It should be dry by the time you have completed the 7.5 removal.


It would be a good idea to use an adjustable Panhard Rod with the 8.8 rear end. This is the only way to properly center any Ford rear end under the car.

***

As with any automotive service, it is recommended that you disconnect the positive battery cable.

Block the rear wheels. With the car in gear/park and the e-brake on, jack the front of the car up at the center of the K member. Position your jack stands on both sides of the K member at the outer recesses. The second notch on a standard jack stand should give you enough room to roll in and out on your crawler without shaving your nose off.

Lower the jack and move to the back of the car. Place the other two jack stands on each side of the car just in front of the rear wheels. Leaving them all the way down, slide the jack under the center of the differential and jack the car up. Once you can clear the rocker molding, slide them in to place under the frame rail. Continue to lift the car and raise the stand cradles until you hit the second notch.

This car is very stable when jacked up from the center. If you are not comfortable with the angle, you can leave the stands cradles all the way down on the front to start, and once the back is up one notch, more to the front and increase it there. Rinse and repeat until you hit the desired height.


Let the jack down slowly until the rear end is fully extended. Tighten the jack and put enough tension on the rear to support it..You'll be leaving it under the differential for the duration, as it will control the removal of the assembly after it is free.


Remove the rear wheels. 13/16s Socket


Remove the calipers: 15mm Socket


Remove the rotors and set aside.


Remove the dust shield: 10mm - install on 8.8


Remove the U clamps and caliper spacers: 1/2 inch deep - install on the 8.8


If you are changing your LCAs, remove clip for e-brake and slip the cable out from between the space in the stock control arms.


If you have TCS, remove the retaining bolt for the TCS sensor. Spray the back and front of the plastic sensor housing with PB Blaster or equivalent. Take care when removing these sensors. The retaining housings are hard plastic and will snap easily.


As illustrated below, use a flat head screwdriver at the direct top of the housing directly in line with the sensor and gently tap it out. The axle assembly will be pretty rusted, so be patient, use plenty of PB and you'll eventually work them loose. Do not try to push the sensors out from the inside. The metal is softer than a Coke can.


Don't do it this way!


Remove the TCS cable retainer clip.


Any nuts and bolts removed can be moved to the 8.8 rear end so you don't loose them... like I would.



Remove swaybar: 15mm deep on lower, 15mm upper endlinks. Yes, I'm using a box end on the lower and it was a PITA due to clearence. One of the few things I don't have are 15+ deep well sockets.


Remove Panhard Rod: 18mm
Remove the plastic shield from the axle side of the Panhard rod to access the bolt.


Remove axle weights/balancers: 15mm deep or use an extension on. You can mount these on the other axle assembly.


Remove the driver shaft. 12mm 12 point or box end 12 point, 3/8th driver universal


Slide under the car and remove the accessible bolts on the DS. Release the brake and put the car in neutral, rotate the DS so you can access the other two bolts. If you are not using an impact gun, put the car back in gear/park and engage the e-brake. Remove the two remaining bolts from one side of the DS. Supporting it with one hand, knock it loose with a rubber mallet and lower it to the ground. Remove the bolts from the other side and set the DS aside.


Put the car in neutral and release the brake at this point and leave them that way. You will not need to set the brake again until the rear is completely installed and you are ready to install the driveshaft.


Now that the DS is out of the way, position your second floor jack under the tail end of the center housing. Just put enough tension on it so the axle does not nosedive when you free it from the Control Arms. Slide the small jack stands under the axle tubes at this point as well. You can leave them at low setting, as they are only being used to stop the assembly from falling to one side or the other once it's free.


Remove the two rear LCA to axle bolts. 18mm
If you are changing the LCAs, remove the front bolds as well and set the arms aside.


You can install your new LCSa on the chassis side at any time.


Remove the shock bolts and set them in a safe place or in the 8.8 assembly.


Lower the read end slowly until it is extended enough to allow removal of the springs.

The axle is now supported by the two floor jacks and the UCA. At this point you will need to jack up the rear again to take tension off the UCA. Raise both jacks to bring the assembly up as evenly as possible. Remove the 21mm nut from the UCA to Diff bushing and knock out the bolt with a hammer. If you have help, have them support the rear so it does not more from side to side. After this bolt is free, the jacks are the only thing between the rear and the ground.


Once the bolt is free and all is well, remove the two small jack stands from under the axle tubes. Slowly lower both floor jacks. Drop the one at the front of the differential out completely and use the one under the pumpkin to roll the 7.5 assembly out from under the car.


Remove the two bump stops from the 7.5 assembly and install them on the 8.8. These are likely rusted on. Use lots of PB blaster. I did not have a ratchet set of Torx bits, so I used a 1/4 inch socket and screw driver bit. A screw driver does not provide enough leverage... for me at least.


Remove the spring isolators and dust caps and install them on the 8.8


Remove the axle vent cap and install it on the 8.8 - 10mm box end.


Pull the red vent plug from the 8.8. It will be red if you didn't paint over it...



8.8 Installation

Notes:

*Use RED Loctite on the pinion nut!
*Use BLUE Loctite on every other nut and bolt!


If you are changing out the pinion flange. You will need to use an impact if you are changing out the pinion before installing the 8.8, If you don't have air tools, you will need to put a long bolt through a pinion hole so that it comes in contact with the differential casting, preventing the hub from spinning. Using a breaker bar, loosen the pinion nut and remove it.


Using a rubber mallet or hammer with a block of wood, tap the pinion and rotate the pinion until it comes off. It will take some good hits, but you want to be careful not to dislodge the rear seal with removal.

Put the new flange on and tap it into place with the rubber mallet, again being firm but careful. Tap the flange all the way on till there is about one mm of space between the Diff and dust cap. Use red Loctite on the inner face of the Pinion nut and threads and Torque it to 150 ft lbs.

If you are changing out the UCA or LCAs and did not bolt them up at the end of the uninstall, do so before you move the 8.8 in to place under the car.

***

Place the 8.8 on a floor jack and roll it under the car. If you have the help of another person, you can install the UCA to differential bolt first. The axle assembly will need to be balanced on the jack as you lift it in to place.


Bring the rear end up a few pumps with the jack until you get to a point, the rear springs can be set into place and won't fall out. Raise the rear end until the body starts to come off the rear jack stands. As soon as that happens, the UCA and Differential bushing are as close to each other as they will get.


Place the two small jack stands under the axle tubes to prevent the rear from tilting to one side. Slide the second floor jack under the front of the Differential. This jack will help you tilt the assembly and aid in lining up the UCA to the Bushing on the rear. Slide under the car and pull down on the UCA. It is pre-loaded, so depending on how far away you are it will take some muscle. Stock springs make the situation worse.


With bolt in hand, have your assistant ready to insert it if you luck out of the first try. Tilt the Diff as necessary until the holes line up. I did this myself, so I don't have any pictures.


The UCA can also be installed after the shocks and control arms, but I would only recommend going that route if you are preforming this install alone.

The bolt should be installed from the passenger side or you may have issues trying to get your impact wrench/socket on it due to the exhaust pipe. Because I was on my own and could not get good positioning to allow installation of the bolt from the passenger side, I had no choice. I did have a short 1/2 inch extension on hand though and just had to cinch up the nut the long way. Even though standard 21mm sockets are a little deeper than usual, you will need a true 21mm deep. There is too little room in the area to get a good throw on a box end. You will also need a 1/2 inch drive extension for the torque wrench to clear the differential. Zip the bolt snug with the gun and torque to 124 ft lbs.


Maneuver the rear height to allow for the shock bolts to be installed.
If you are installing a Panhard Relocation Bracket, Install the nut and bolt on the driver side with the bracket in place, but do not use Loctite or torque it down at this time.


Use blue Loctite on the threads and install the nut on the passenger side. I could not find specs, so went 124 ft lbs.

Install the LCA bolts and torque to 129 ft lbs. I used the factory number here. No instructions were included with the arms - unless you count the high performance drive shaft install sheets for a GTO as instructions.


Install the TCS sensors and retaining bolts if applicable.


If you did not install the dust shields, do so now.

Proceed with the re-installation of the rotors and brake calipers.


If the brake calipers have collapsed and you cannot get them over the rotors you will need to rent a caliper compression tool from AutoZone or the like. It is very difficult to get the calipers pistons to turn in even with the tool, and in my case was impossible with out it.


Remove both pads from the caliper. Pic out the appropriate die from the kit and slip the tool into the caliper as shown. Turn the piston counter clockwise to compress it. Be liberal, about 5 or 6 full turns, so you don't have to keep removing and reinstalling the tool.

You will not need to touch the bleed screws to do this part of the job or bleed the brakes after it is done.


Install the calipers


Install the Panhard Rod and Sway Bar. If you have a Girdle cover, you will need to install a Panhard Relocation Bracket available from a few S197 aftermarket companies. The one shown here is from BMR.


Go over every nut and bolt and make sure you have not missed any.

Slide under the car and reinstall the driveshaft, setting and releasing the brake as necessary. Use blue Loctite on all the bolts. Torque should be between 100-120 ft lbs.

Install the wheels and put the car on the ground.

Pat yourself on the back. you just saved a ton of money that can be put towards your next mod.

You should take it easy on the new 8.8 just like you would a new set of gears unless it is a takeoff with a few hundred miles on it. Give it 50 or so miles, check all your nuts and bolts again to make sure none have worked loose and then drive it like you stole it!